7 attractions that will entice you to sail to Shetland

At a time of spectacular overseas discoveries, it was seafarers who found new corners of the world and the routes to them. During our September voyage across the Atlantic and North Sea, we were somewhat of the great explorers ourselves. We were the first Rivierans to set foot on the remote archipelago of Shetland. During our stop in Lerwick, we explored the island of Mainland. We visited its present and past capital, and drove along both the east and west coasts of the island. What experiences did we take away from Shetland? What makes the archipelago special and interesting?

1. Enchanted by the swim

When we decided to sail up to Shetland, we knew we were in for a few days at sea. This wasn't always kind to us, with the boat being messed with at times, but it also brought us lots of experiences. Some people enjoyed the waves in the pool, others watched them or the calm surface at sunrise or sunset, even throughout the day. The fins of the whales that followed the ship across the Arctic Circle did not escape the watchful eye. We were not aware of its crossing, but the beautiful scenery did not escape our attention.

Off the coast of Iceland we were enchanted by the fjords, approaching Shetland by sea it was the rugged coastline, its cliffs and rolling hills. They were also showing off Lerwick, where we dropped anchor. Its harbour is too small for large ships like ours. We therefore remained standing in the middle of the sea and used a tender (small boats) to get ashore. We used them to approach the stone buildings, which, together with the colourful boats, were reflected on the water. Our boat stayed far enough away to prepare a spectacular entrée for us, yet close enough to jump out of every angle for photos as we walked through the city.

2. Scotland with a dash of Norway

Shetland was settled by the Vikings, who also ruled the archipelago for a long time. For centuries they belonged to the kingdoms of Denmark and Norway. But then King Christian I married his daughter Margaret to James III, the Scottish monarch. The Northern Isles guaranteed to pay the dowry. He didn't. Therefore, both Shetland and Orkney became part of Scotland. Today the inhabitants are Presbyterians, speak English, pay in British pounds and drive on the left. When they speak, however, their northern accents and origins do not escape the discerning ear.

In addition, the Shetland dialect is full of words with Old Norse origins. The Scandinavian roots have names of places, birds, parts of ships, names of people and many others. Nordic traditions can be felt in music, festivals and architecture. For example, the town hall in Lerwick enchants with its beautiful stained glass windows with scenes from Norwegian (and Scottish) history.

Throughout the archipelago there are many sites with evidence of a Norwegian presence. One of the most memorable is the enchanting Tingwall valley. It was there, on an outcrop at the northern end of Tingwall Loch, that Parliament once met.

3. More sheep than people

Shetland is made up of approximately 100 islands. Less than 20 of them are inhabited. Of the 23,000 or so people, most live on Mainland, the largest island we visited. Its 'metropolis', Lerwick, is the UK's most northerly town. But despite its location just above the Arctic Circle, don't expect to find dumps of snow and ice here. Although we were surprised by a fair amount of fog, the archipelago enjoys a mild maritime climate. It is neither too warm nor extremely cold.

It rarely rains, so the island is covered in lush grass. It's especially excellent in the Tingwall Valley, where we couldn't help but notice the sheep. There are about 100,000 of them running around Shetland. They produce wool for quality sweaters and meat. As do the cattle that the people here keep. They don't have much choice, the soil and climate are not very conducive to growing crops.

Moreover, the waters are excellent for fish, which have been hunted and bred here since time immemorial. In the past it was herring and cod, today it is mainly salmon. In Scalloway we took a ride through the place where they are smoked, processed or sold. The oyster farming cages on the surface did not escape the observant eye during the trip.

4. The icon of the island is the pony

In the green meadows by the roads or on the hills you will see, besides the sheep, somewhat comical ponies. They have short legs, thick necks, thick fur and a mane thrown over the eye like an "emak".

Despite their short stature, they are very strong and durable. They have adapted to the harsh conditions of the cold and windy archipelago. In the past, its inhabitants mainly used ponies for work. They worked in the mines, ploughed, carried heavy loads. Today, they go to competitions and exhibitions, carry tourists in carts. They are also therapy animals. I even came across a story of a blind woman who has a guide Shetland pony. I also found the symbol of the archipelago on a local beer sign.

5. The past is brought back by the Shetland bus

You would say that Shetland is far enough away to have been hit by major wars. Yes and no. They avoided the damage that the rest of the old continent suffered, but they had a substantial role in WW2 for example. When the Germans occupied Norway, many of the inhabitants fled to the Mainland, almost 300 kilometres away.

From there they ran a covert operation codenamed Shetland Bus. Its aim was to get as many people as possible out of the country by boat, mainly fishing barges at first. They also supplied supplies and weapons. They were based in the former capital of Scalloway, where a memorial and museum now stands. It shows and brings home the fact that the locals were and are heroes, but also fishermen, whalers, sheep farmers and folk artists.

6. Behind the development is oil

It's been decades since oil was found off an archipelago at the end of the world. They didn't leave it at the bottom of the sea, of course. They built platforms to extract it, a terminal to process and export the oil. The discovery and subsequent extraction have given Shetland's economy a major boost. But the reserves are slowly running out. So the archipelago is looking around for new sources of energy.

They began to harness the power of the tides and the wind. All over the island, windmills are springing up like mushrooms after the rain, and they give them names. Infrastructure is also developing. After all, most of the Mainland's roads are still very narrow. Only one car can fit on them, and if you want to overtake or avoid oncoming traffic, you have to "tidy up" in the designated spaces.

7. Lerwick and its lodberries

The name Lerwick translates as muddy or clay bay. It is not very posh, much like the origins of the town. Its origins were not entirely with church order. Buildings began to rise in the 17th century to provide facilities and infrastructure for traders. They traded mainly in fish, most commonly herring and cod, but also wool.

However, the settlement they built here was a thorn in the side of the 'leadership' in Scalloway. The then capital was outraged by the illegal building and the low morale of the sailors, so they closed it down. But Lerwick has grown up again. Nobody designed his old town, it just gradually, building by building, came into being. The 18th century buildings have, thankfully, survived to this day.

They are called lodberries. They are grey stone houses by the water, with a small pier for unloading goods. They show Lerwick's past very nicely, but also a boat in the distance. It can also be seen from the defensive fortress of Charlotte.

 

Do you want it to show up for you too? Go on a cruise with transport and a delegate, with which you will also discover this amazing corner of the world. We're coming again next August - see more here.